To Gozo (Ghawdex) Again

Our morning sky with our coffee before we make an early start.

The weeks keep marching by and we still want to spend more time on Gozo. Malta is wonderful but Gozo maintains the enchantment of a small village lifestyle. Despite the fact that many tourists, ourselves included, travel to see the beautiful coastal towns, at this time of year it is relatively quiet. We had four places on our agenda today.....Zebbug, Dwejra, Ta Cenc and maybe back to Nadur for the Wednesday market. When the ferry docks in Mgarr all buses go to Victoria and then you decide which way to go from there. A look at all the schedules and the first bus leaving is to Nadur.

Gozitans are very friendly and always ready to help with directions. We followed a lady that was going to the market. The bus driver had said it was about a ten minute walk. As are markets everywhere, for us there was nothing we needed or wanted except a mid morning snack. We just enjoyed the local energy and bought two mini fruit flans to eat somewhere with maybe a cappuccino??

 

The last time we were here the church wasn't open. Today a door was open and as we peeked inside two women told us to come in and look around. They were volunteers and were cleaning the huge chandeliers that hung from the domed ceilings. Every church is beautiful but some are exquisite and this was one of them. I have never seen so many domes inside one church. Four or five men had a scaffold on wheels and they used pulleys to bring down the chandelier. The ladies washed every light and piece of crystal. They do this twice a year. Then they are covered in cloth and raised back up until June when they will be unwrapped to celebrate the Feast of St Peter and St Paul. As with women everywhere there is always time for a chat. While Bob took pictures they told me a bit about the history of the church and their community. This church is over 400 years old. These beautiful churches, in every village and town, will most likely be the last ones to be built on these islands. She said there is no longer the money nor the skills today to create churches of this grandeur.

 

She also told us Nadur has one of the best "Carnival" celebrations in Malta. It is the same as that celebrated in Catholic countries around the world. The most famous being in New Orleans and Rio DeJaneiro. People from Malta come to Nadur for the 3/4 day festival over the 14th of February. She wished she could have invited us to stay at her home but she said all her kids come and bring their friends. If it was summer it would be okay because they could all sleep outside but this is winter and everybody needs a warm bed. The warmth of Gozitans.

When we came out of the church the market was closing down and only a few tables were still set up.

A bus was there so we got on quickly to return to Victoria and get the next bus out to Dwejra. The neighbouring town is San Lawrenz and Dwejra is really a very small tourist bay on the west coast whose claim to fame is 'the Azure Window'. Local guides in their Luzzus take you for a 15/20 minute cruise through the gap in the rock to the outside water. There are caverns and holes in the rock, orange coral and as advertised azure coloured water. It was pointed out by the boatman the face in the rock and the collection of rocks up on the cliff that looks like an alligator. For €4 I was, like a small child, excited by my mini adventure. I have now cruised the Mediterranean.

 

There is always only rock. Remnants from ancient seabeds sit petrified on what looks like sand. I see sand dollars and shells that look like you could pick them up, but they are immovable parts of the 'beach'.

Sometimes when we think we are lucky to catch a bus without a long wait it turns out to be not such a bonus. As we left Dwejra back to Victoria for the second time today our driver told us to stay on his bus as he would be going to Mgarr, where the ferry docks. I think he wanted to keep us on the bus so he could tell Bob he knew about Cabelas (from Bobs Tshirt). Turns out to be the school bus route and we are inundated with school kids. They are very loud but fun to watch and listen too. There seems to be an innocence and open commraderie between all ages of Maltese kids. I can't compare with our kids because we never travel like this with them. But through observation it is hard to imagine bullying....there is so much laughter and face to face interaction. Another around the world bus trip that gets us to the ferry just 'after' the ferry leaves the dock. We have 45 minutes to kill so we walk around the harbour dock. There is an AFM (Armed Forces Malta) high speed pontoon boat with two - 250 horsepower outboard motors and a SAR boat against the dock. Marine coast similarities with any country.

And like all of us, we crave the warmth of the sun especially in winter. These young people may have been waiting for the ferry too. I know I couldn't lay on cement in any comfort anymore but appreciate the ability of those that can.

 

We are happy to sit by the window with a little refreshment after a busy day. On this our third trip to Gozo we don't feel the need to be outside looking at the sights. Kind of like traveling our BC Ferries. One more bus and our seven block walk and we are home. Another good day. If I was ever to come back to Malta I would want to stay on Gozo.

 

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