Sunday, November 3, 2013
November and Mississippi
We survived the rain and wind storm and Halloween. Only got egged once during the night:) This morning we crossed the bridge from Helena Akansas into Mississippi. First place after the causeway is a Casino with RV parking for $15 a night for full hook ups. We continue on to Clarksdale as our destination. After a long stop at the Welcome Center visiting with the employees while we use their wifi to do an iOS 7 update we arrive at the "Crossroads" of Hwy 49 and Hwy 61. This is the famous junction for the movie of the same name about Bluesman Robert Johnson. We are in Clarksdale, home of the Delta Blues.
Helena, Arkansas and Clarksdale, Mississippi both have their claims to fame and share a deep history of Delta Blues music and famous blues musicians.
It seems that the bridge across the river is more than just a span across the Mississippi. It is a totally different culture and atmosphere. We look into staying at the Walmart but it is very small and very busy. We decide to go back the 20 miles to the casino and set up for a few days. This way we can unhook and Bob can enjoy our forays into old streets without the RV.
On our drive back to the casino we pass a huge "plantation" with cotton fields for as far as you can see. This is the Stovall Farm, which it turns out is known for more than its cotton. It was the childhood home of Muddy Waters. He lived there as a child of sharecroppers working the cotton fields until his music took him to Chicago.
His home site was destroyed by a tornado....some of the old cypress wood is in the Blues Museum recreating his old home.
The band ZZTop also had a guitar made out of a piece of this wood called a Muddywood guitar.
We start out at Walmart looking for our box wine, were sent to Kroger's, no wine there either.....Mississippi state law says no wine or liquor can be sold in anything but a "package" store...government run liquor stores.
Found one finally but it only had 2 red and 1 white, bought his whole supply...no more until Tuesday's order, lol
Walking old town, Blues Alley, Ground Zero club, bar and restaurant. Owned by Morgan Freeman. Underwhelming.
The Blues Museum, good history but couldn't take pictures. I like to take pictures of the information panels so I can reread them later. It's too much to take in and remember. Overall a little disappointing.
Wandered back to truck, a few places open.
Listened to a bit more music at Hambone's but there was a cold wind blowing so we headed back to the truck and drove the streets again before heading back to RV.
Interesting place to see but we both enjoyed Helena better.
Helena had a genteel air about it despite so much decay...still so many beautiful old homes and
buildings....Clarksdale is rough and worn down, maybe always has been, a "Crossroads" town,.....
highways, railways and waterways. It's like "the other side of the tracks" only it's "across the bridge" as they say in Helena.
Some days our experiences are beyond our expectations and so we have to be OK when other days our experiences fall below expectations. Today was one of those days. We are left feeling unsettled about where in Missipi we want to go next. Everyday we tell ourselves we can't see everything even though we try to see it all.
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