Mdina

The storm is abating and this morning we still have rough seas and wind but no more rain. We are going to Mdina, the walled city. First stop on our way is the wine store in Bugibba to make arrangements for a delivery. Can't get the wine I would like so we will stop on our way back and decide what we will get. On the bus to Mdina about a twenty minute ride. It is still cool today and the wind is blowing cold as Mdina is up high on a hill. It is almost impossible to describe this place. I thought it would be mostly a tourist destination but people actually live within the walls. I can only show pictures.

 

 

 

We spent about 3 hours walking the streets. There are many tourist shops selling Maltese crystal, lace jewelry and the usual "stuff". I found a stationery shop that had a fantastic array of pens. I have been wanting a fountain pen with ink cartridges.

We could have spent many more hours wandering around, so many things we didn't see, but we also know we have lots of time to come back again. Caught the bus.....getting pretty good at this after only a couple of days, back to the wine store, ordered our wine and as it was our first delivery they wanted one of us to go with them to show the way. I preferred to walk so Bob went with the fellow and organized the delivery up to our apartment. The afternoon had warmed up and I enjoyed the short walk home. Even the feral cats were enjoying the sun.

About 5:30 Ron came over with a microwave and a "coffee maker". We were expecting a regular drip coffee maker like at home. Wrong....they make coffee ala Italiano, espresso, or they do instant. We had one of these in the apartment but didn't know what it was.

So we are set...can't think of anything else we will need...we then walked over to the Portabello for pizza. When we came back we couldn't get the key to work in the apartment door. What next!! Thank goodness we have Internet and it worked outside the apartment door. Emailed Ron but he was out of the town so said he would send brother Edward to check. We sat in the stairwell for twenty minutes. Edward was there quickly as he tends to drive like the 25 yr old he is....lucky for us. And of course he tries the key and it works. I punched him because my thumb is bruised blue from trying ....Murphy's law ....he left us the spare key and said he was going for a beer, goodnight. They really are a wonderful family but I hope we won't have to need anything from them going forward, at least for a week.

The end of our first week. It has been eventful, a lot of organizing, catching up on sleep, but still walking and exploring every day. I think we have done a good job so far. I am delighted with everything I have seen and the people we have met....tomorrow we are taking the ferry to Gozo.

 

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Storm Watch

At 2:00am we woke up to the biggest thunder and lightning storm I've ever seen or heard. There had been one earlier in the evening while we were still up and we could feel the window frames vibrating from the thunder of that one. After a half hour it had moved away from right over our heads and we were able to go back to sleep to the diminishing rumbles and flashes of light.
Today is our forecasted big stormy day with lots of wind and rain. We made a quick trip to the shops early while there was a break in the rain. We now have enough supplies for the day.

For the last twenty years Bob has offered to cut my hair any time I say I'm getting it cut. I have just rolled my eyes at him with no intention of letting him touch it. After not being satisfied with any of the last three haircuts I've got, I told him he could cut it all off. I figured worst case scenario I have three months to grow it back before we come home and no one knows me here:)
Not having a lot of hairdresser supplies with us he had to use the Fiskar all purpose scissors he brought with him. I always thought Fiskar was basically lawn care tools and these do look somewhat like the lawn clippers I have in the shed at home. But with one cut down to an inch long we were committed and I am now happy with my pixie cut similar to the one I had twelve years ago. I'm just not going to bleach it blonde like I did back then.

We decided to walk up to the corner where there is a restaurant that is highly recommended by Trip Advisor and our Landlord to make reservations for Christmas dinner. They don't do an evening meal just a fixed menu lunch from 1:00 til 4:00. For €28 you get a choice of Turkey, Prime Rib or Fish plus all the other courses. Apparently when you come for the lunch you can stay for the afternoon. They only take bookings for the amount of seating available. We decide we might as well go there for Christmas Eve too as it is so close. After that we might start to think about cooking at home, but maybe not. It is so easy to get food for dinners. We have breakfast at home and then something light for lunch depending where we are.

Slowly but surely I will get the sketching habit back again. I got away from it the last few weeks before we left. Too many things to be thinking about at the time and I didn't feel inspired. Getting my journalistic "reportage" juices flowing.
Thinking of Gramma Cog today as the family says goodbye to her. Sherry did a beautifully captured portrait. The Youngsons and the Gales have been connected for over 50 years.

Daylight is starting to fade, the lights have come on along the promenade and the sea is still crashing over the breakwater. It has been a productive day despite the weather. This picture doesn't do justice to what we see but it does tell the story. The inner harbour looks muddy but the sea beyond still shows the blue of the Mediterranean.

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A Work Day in Bugibba

The weather prediction is for heavy wind and rain Tuesday night and Wednesday. Sounds very similar to what is happening on Vancouver Island. We have a few chores to deal with so head out about 8:30 for Bugibba, a 15 minute walk. I have mailed post cards to the kids, and been to HSBC to get change to use on the buses. We are putting in time till the wine cellar opens so we can place our order. Bob had read about a restaurant called Grannies that had good reviews for a full breakfast €2.95 (less than $4.50) two eggs, three full slices of bacon, English style, sausage, beans, fried tomato, toast and coffee. It's a good job tipping isn't the norm here coz our waitress had the personality of a slug. We tried really hard to humour her but it wasn't happening.

It is so quiet today being a week day. We realized of the four full days we have been here three have been weekend days so it is a bit of a surprise to find ourselves almost alone wandering the streets. Our wine store doesn't have the wine that we want in stock but will see if they can find it. Feeling a bit low energy today so we head home to do our household chores.

Ron and Edward came over about 2:00 to put a new handle on our balcony door and replace some light bulbs. It was a good opportunity to exchange information about our countries. Edward is the "Schneider" of the two, Mr Fixit...while Ron, the older one, handles the bookings for the three apartments they rent. It is a family enterprise comprising a bar in St Julian's, a catering and event planning business. The apartments are owned by the parents but operated by them all.

I could write a whole post about the country of Malta from what I have learned from the Gauci's. Not tonight.

Observations: lots of cars, but many people walk

:Free garbage pick up seven days a week, but there is garbage everywhere and they don't recycle.

:there is very little poverty and I have been told I would be very safe walking home from Art classes at 7:00 at night

Let the storm begin. Thunder and lighting and rain for the next 24 hours but we are cosy and warm. I'm thinking I might let Bob cut my hair tomorrow. I'm tired of paying for haircuts that I don't like. Ever since I went short it has been a struggle to find a style I like and that is easy to maintain. I think I will go back to my really short hair of 12 years ago. If I don't like it I have three months to let it grow out, lol.

Gramma Cogs funeral tomorrow.....love to all the family.

 

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Walking and Riding

Another night closer to normal. After coffee and breakfast I did our first load of laundry. All the appliances take a little figuring out to begin with. We have a small back balcony and a clothes rack for drying. Very few people have dryers in Malta. Like central heating it is not necessary because of the year round good weather.

The beautiful Maltese boats called Luzzus with eyes painted on either side of the bow to watch over the fishers.

The enclosed balconies and ancient doors, many of which are painted in very bright colours. I wonder if the door colours and unique designs are to enhance the somewhat drab colours of the limestone of which all the buildings are constructed.
We set out this morning walking along the Promenade that follows, off and on, the whole of St Paul's Bay. Today we went west towards the head of the bay to Xemxija. It was a very windy, sunny day but we have everything we need to be warm. A quick stop in the sun for cappuccinos before we continue on our way. We decided to walk as long as we felt like it and then catch a bus to somewhere. We wanted to see how the buses work. For €1.5 Or $2.25 you can ride the buses all day. So we went south to Sliema and St Julian's, two of the busier centres for tourists and high end shopping near the capital of Valletta. We had forgotten that today was a public holiday and so many or most of the people were enjoying the day, the sun and the visiting. Europeans certainly know how to sit back with a coffee, a beer or a wine and just relax. Today as tourists we enjoyed the day people watching from a seat on the bus for almost three hours there and back. Not a long journey just a congested one. We are quite proud of ourselves as we found our way back to Mosta Road which is where we have our local shops. From there it is a quick ten minute walk to our apartment.
We reheated our leftover lasagna and tortellini take out dinners with crusty bread and wine and were in bed by 8:00pm. Only for me to wake up at 10:00pm. I'm really having trouble eliminating that middle of the night awake period. Good thing is everyone at home is up and I can catch up on my IMs:)
It seems a bit surreal to think we are sitting in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. Leaving home less than a week ago seems more like ages ago. We have conquered jet lag, a new place to live with appliances that need time to figure out, where to get our groceries and wine.
I really want to do a lot of painting, "but" I'm not finding the time this week. It is more important for me to write my blog and keep my thoughts recorded. I will add my painted interpretations as more time presents itself.

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To Bugibba

Almost a back to normal sleep last night. Breakfast and showers and we set out for Bugibba in search of an Internet cafe. Not an easy find in this age of free Wifi everywhere. The days of Internet cafes with lap tops are few. Everyone only needs the wifi connection for their phones and iPads. I have my iPhone with me but according to Koodo I need to sync It with ITunes to clear it for using another companies SIM card. Found the "9 Ball" Internet cafe that was recommended to me. A few computers in the back with the pool tables. I ordered a cappuccino, my first one since Italy! And it was sooo good. But....the instructions from Koodo to sync my phone do not work. It was worth the effort to get my cappaccino though:). We wandered the streets, found the Caravaggio Art Store. I can take classes on Fridays from 5:00 to 7:00 in the evening. It's a bit of a walk and it will be dark to come home but I think it will be OK. I feel comfortable here and it's through town about 20 minutes. We will see how it works out.

 

We sat in the sun in Bugibba Square. Sunday's are ritually about families and friends being together, sharing a drink, a meal, just enjoying the day. It is something I remember from Italy and it is such a pleasant, relaxing way to spend an afternoon. Despite the fact that there are only 450,000 people on Malta there are apparently over 400,000 vehicles, but people still like to walk. I'm trying to keep up my journal painting but right now it's a bit of a chore so I'm just posting pictures. I will start to do more painting in time.

I've started my scarf purchases already. A nice dark brown Pashmina, don't know if that's a cashmere knock off...not sure of my scarf qualities.

This is something I've never heard of before. As we walked up a side street we noticed two young women sitting on benches with their feet in water filled tanks in a place called the Fish Lounge..... there were dozens of little fish swimming around in the tanks. Apparently it is a custom that originates from Turkey that provides exfoliation and a pedicure from all these little sucker fish. You can even have a full body treatment. I guess it is like the little sucker fish you have in your aquarium to clean up the algae. Pretty bizarre but interesting none the less.

We get home while the sun is still shining. I walked down to the shops to get lasagne and tortellini for dinner from a takeout stand called the Sphinx. Through a little language confusion I ended up with two tortellini and one lasagna. Each one enough for the two of us. Total cost €5.60... A little over $8 and enough for three meals. Good too.....I made it back just as the rains started with thunder, lightning and blowing wind. We sat in front of our glass doors watching the storm move across the bay while we ate dinner. Our landlord Ron has brought over his spare phone for our use for the next two months. I just have to install a SIM card and buy minutes for it. Phone problems solved and I have closed my account with Koodo due to their lack of customer service.

No homes in Malta have central heating. Everything is built of limestone and the majority of months are warm and therefore kept cool. For the cooler weather like we experienced today they use space heaters. I have my new scarf around my neck and am cosy and warm for our first cool evening.

There is so much to tell about this place. I'm trying to make notes to remember my thoughts and observations. Today I realized they don't have hardly any neon signs. You really need to know where you're going or you could walk right passed a restaurant due to lack of signage. There are signs all over about picking up after your dog but the evidence on the sidewalks shows that many people don't heed them. Somewhat like stop signs, parking restrictions and speed limits. I love the variations of language and accents. There are different dialects of Maltese with all kinds of British accents. One shop lady I asked if she was Dutch...no she is Maltese. But she has an English mother and a Maltese father. A lot of British people come here for the winter....European snowbirds? Definitely not a lot or any Americans.

Setting a record tonight...8:30pm and I'm still awake....normalcy might just be returning.

 

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Testing for problems

I should probably have waited to start my blog until I was in a better mental condition. Our own Christmas Elves. The excitement is mountIng.

 

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The Malta Adventure Begins

Our journey begins on Tuesday Dec 2/14. We shut the house down and our good friends Warren and Judy picked us up to go to our motel for the night in Comox. After registering and dropping off our bags we went to the Black Fin for a late lunch and a goodbye beer/wine. We watched the Canucks beat Washington. Our last Hockey game til March.
It is a beautiful crisp morning to start our journey. Air travel is an arduous, hurry up and wait process. You are totally out of control over any of the procedures. It's as if you give up all your personal rights for the right to fly from country to country. You have to pay premium dollars for this privilege. All your possessions, your body and clothing are subject to extensive search. Bob was the "lucky" one and managed to have to endure the random and very thorough selection at three different security control centres. We thought that only having a small carryon bag that 1 1/2 hours would be sufficient time. Wrong! I will never fly internationally again without a minimum of 3 hours between flights. I would fly Lufthansa again. Their service and personnel were wonderful. Without a lot of cooperation from them and a few golf carts we would have missed our last flight.

As we left Frankfurt on another beautiful sunny morning we flew over the Swiss Alps along the Italian Riviera, across Sicily, above the blue Mediterranean, a right turn and we swept into the Malta airport. It is sunny, warm and full of soft colours.

No customs to go through and our checked luggage was there waiting for us. Edward, Ron's brother was there to pick us up for the 1/2 hour drive to St Paul's Bay. We made a wine stop and then we were 'home'. Ron's mother MaryAnne was there to greet us. She had stocked our fridge with cheeses, ham, eggs, milk, butter and bread. There was even coffee and tea.
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The next two days have been somewhat of a blur with disjointed sleeps and foggy brains. But there has been things that we needed to do. We have walked our neighbourhood, found grocery stores for basics like condiments for sandwiches, bakeries, water, wine outlets (everywhere). It has taken these days also to unpack and feel a little bit organized.
We still wake up in the middle of the night wide awake. We have decided to just go with the flow. This morning I was up from 11:00 to 3:00. I poured a glass of wine and worked on my journal. Then Bob got up and made coffee, we had some toast and finally went back to bed around 3:00 til 7:00.
Today we walked to the market for a few more groceries. Found Ohio operated by Rami, who for an extra €3 will deliver our water. After lunch we walked away from the town area along the walkways that follow the bay into Bugibba. It's still a mystery about where we are as these areas just blend into each other. We watched Saturday afternoon games at the Bugibba Bocci Klabb then found a wine cellar that will deliver. We bought a few bottles of Maltese wine to try before buying any quantities. Heading home was uphill and we were laden down with 4 bottles of wine and a bottle of Limoncella. We are starting our walking regimen.
We are waiting for our landlord Ron to come over so we can meet each other. We are staying in tonight and having buns and cheese and cold cuts for dinner. We still don't have a big appetite, a good thing for sure.

A few pictures from our first days. This blog is about as foggy as my brain. It's always difficult to play catchup. Hoping tomorrow will see us mostly back to normal.

My apologies to any readers. This blog page is a mess. I have lost it several times trying to tweek it and add pictures. I do not want to write it again so here it is warts and all. There are big spaces in the middle that I can't get rid of. It is Saturday night, we have been on two walks today, met our landlord and are managing to stay up til at least 8:00pm.

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