Scirocco Winds

As dawn breaks we think we are looking at fog out over the bay to the open sea. For the first time on our weather channel the forecast says 'dust' .....not rain, not wind, not fog, just dust. I've never seen that description before. Everywhere is hazy. The warm winds blow across the Mediterranean from the Sahara Desert. The strong winds have been blowing for four days now and we are seeing the results.

Some days seem to last a long time and this is one of them. We walked to the main bus stop this morning, starting our look around town. First stop is the BOV, Bank of Valletta, to change a€500 note. We forgot it was Saturday and the banks only let so many people in at a time. We were number four in line. There was a different line for the ATM. We aren't desperate for change so we bail on our first chore. A short walk and we are at the bay. I opt to sit in the sun looking out at all the boats while Bob checks out the two fresh fruit and vegetable trucks. It's too early to start shopping and carrying stuff so we catch another bus, #91 that takes us to St Thomas Grocery. I had seen online that they offer free delivery. That's what we need because we have to buy water and we definitely can't haul that on our backs. In St Paul's Bay our wine seller brought our water with our wine:).

Before we start shopping we get the delivery information sorted out. Most people in Malta speak some English. But they speak Maltese first and the further you get away from the more touristy areas the less conversant they are. We are in a local market in a town of less than 12000 people. This is a family owned and operated store. The free delivery includes me and Bob. As soon as we have paid the bill the owner loads all our stuff in his van, we climb in the front seat along with all kinds of stuff including a hub cap on the floor and off we go. The owner told us their business is run on making customers happy. We are happy. He and his wife have been operating their store for 31 years. Now their daughter is also a part of it. This is the part of Malta I enjoy.

The plan was to unpack our groceries and head back out. But the sun was so warm and we had our deck chairs set up. It seemed like a much better idea to sit back and, hopefully, let the sun soak these colds out of us.

Our rooftop apartment is unique in that it has two patios, one that looks out over other apartment blocks and across to the bay, the urban view. The other one looks out on a rural vista. No buildings just the random wandering of stone walled fields in varying degrees of growth.

 

We pass the afternoon away pleasantly. I was looking out at the church below us that has the ringing bells that sound so wonderful. I noticed a red carpet leading to the doors and with my binoculars I see three men in tuxedos standing in front. I think we have a wedding happening:). It is just before four o'clock and then I hear a horn honking. Still looking through binoculars I see a big silver car approach, maybe a Rolls Royce or a Bentley....too far away to tell, but there is the bride and her father. Being a catholic country I assume it will be at least an hour before the ceremony is finished. I spend the time preparing dinner while Bob has a shower and then at 5:00 everyone piled out of the church, bride and groom and confetti thrown, into the big silver car and away. The church bells played " here comes the bride", then rang after the ceremony too. A timely peek into somebody's special day. There's a Maltese party happening somewhere in Marsascala tonight.

Tomorrow to Marsaxlokk and the Sunday Market. We've been to a weekday one but we'll see how much bigger and busier the Sunday one is.

An aside to today's walk....

Last year for Sherry's birthday I did a Picasso style card. It has been our joke.....she is 'mi Picassa' and I'm some kind of Rembrandt, lol. But today we found a new car for her ....a lovely gold coloured Peugeot Picasso.

It has been 'suggested' that it would be cheaper for all if she just went to a decal store and added the name to her trusty Toyota.

 

 

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Our First day in Marsascala

When you are driven somewhere you just don't see things the same as when you are walking. We know we are on the top of the hill at the end of the street. After a slow morning we are ready to start exploring our new neighbourhood. I remember Ron saying left, right, left and right....his instructions from George. So we head in the reverse down our road, il Quccata, (oochatta) and go right, left, right and down the three steep blocks to the main road and the HSBC on the corner that people keep using as a marker for us:).

We first check out the pharmacy. The doctor will be there any minute but as we talk to the pharmacist she tells us that 'the cold' that people have is lingering so I decide I'll wait another couple of days to see how I feel. It's been almost two weeks and now it seems to have settled on Bob today. Another package of Beechams lozenges.

We have a couple of grocery store names and are given directions to the first on our list, St Thomas' because the online description says they deliver. No luck, can't find it. We do find a bakery and buy three fresh loaves of Maltese bread and a couple of pastries to eat while we walk. The bakery ladies tell us the best place to go is Chef's Choice but we have to go by bus. It's only a five minute ride but a long walk and we are dropped off right at the door. We get some fresh meat and a few staples which is about all we can carry. They don't have our coffee or creamer but we have enough for a day or two. We just miss a bus going back and have to stand in the wind and some rain for a half hour. Such is the life of people without a vehicle:). The next bus that comes along is only going to Marsascala and does a big loop in and about town before stopping at the terminal. From there we start our walk home. We hit a couple of the small grocery stores along the way and manage to get some cream and carrots. Now we are really loaded down for the climb uphill. Three steep blocks up, one to the right, another steep block, a couple of zigs and zags and we are on our street and home.

We had a couple of hours of quiet before George arrived with a new microwave, a battery for the wall clock and a refresher course on the TV and DVD player. We had found a DVD in a drawer that was about Harbour Air. Bob told him they were from Vancouver Island and he said no they used to fly a charter over Malta and Gozo but it didn't work out so was no longer being offered. We watched the video and it showed all the places they flew over. He told us we could have the video as a souvenir. Somebody that had stayed in this apartment must have taken the tour and then left the video behind. We needed an extra plug for the microwave so Bob went with George to get one. He showed Bob where the mysterious grocery store was and the Bank of Valletta where we can change our large Euro notes.

Relocating takes a lot of energy. But we made some useful discoveries today and now have food and supplies for the next few days. Leftovers heated in our new microwave and we are ready for tomorrow.

No photos and no painting today.....just feet up looking at our red feature wall...and a quick splash in the journal.

 

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Moving Day

We have spent the last week looking forward to our move to Marsascala. Now that the day has arrived I am sad to say goodbye to this lovely Bay that we have looked out on for two months. Ron arrived on time in his little Mazda with his two year old son and it was all we could do to fit all our luggage and extra boxes into the car. We dropped Mark off at Nana's on our way. As with Grammas and grandchildren everywhere, both were excited to see each other. We were handed off from one landlord to another. George gave us all the information he could and we settled in to unpack and get reoriented in a completely different situation. St Paul's Bay apartment was older and a bit tired but it had the spectacular view. The Marsascala apartment is newer, more modern and it has two seperate rooftop patios but you have to be outside to get the benefit of the views. Another plus is it has a really good heater!!! The stone walls and floors in these Malta buildings are hard to heat but I am toasty warm now. We are going to have an early dinner and probably an early night. It has been windy for two days now so we are staying inside for the evening. Tomorrow we start our new adventure. First to find groceries and hopefully a place that will deliver.

View from our front patio of Marsascala Bay.

View from the back patio. This picture really gives a true idea of how small each community is and the way they are separated by the rock walled fields. After two months I finally have a proper wine glass. I tried to buy one but just couldn't find one without having to buy a six pack set? I swear the wine tastes better! I have a bottle of Prosecco, a sparkling wine/champagne to have on the first sunny afternoon sitting in my chaise lounge. Hopefully that will be sooner, not later.

 

And then the best shower in two months...unlimited hot water with a window to open looking out over the valley, sweet! It may still be cool and windy but everyday has its beauty. The sun is going down and the church bells are ringing from below our aerie on the hillside.

 

 

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Goodbye to Gozo

We are out the door before 9:00 and the weather looks promising for our final trip to Gozo. It's been over a week since we have been on the buses and we're feeling good. It's quiet going this early but there is always a full tour bus for every sailing. It is the first time in our two months here that we have heard people speaking English that were not from Great Britain. Our first Americans. Hmmmm.....we go outside to watch the scenery passing but it's hard not to get caught up with people watching instead.

My first purchase as we walk towards the Citadil. The draw is for a minimum €250m on Friday. If I win I don't think we'll be home on Mar 1st.

 

We start the uphill walk to the piazza. It is still under construction and the Citadil is even more unavailable than last time. The church is open but there is a charge of €6 to go in. We have seen many beautiful churches for free so it's not worth almost $20 for us to see this one especially when you can't see all the surrounding buildings within the walls. It is noisy with jack hammers and just generally an unsafe environment. Construction sites are not closed off like at home. As we walk back down the road to town we are walking on broken up roadways and sidewalks alongside moving cranes, equipment and trucks. We walked a few different streets looking at shops and came upon a lovely quiet park right in the middle of town. As everywhere there is an abundance of benches, always with the choice of sun or shade. We always choose the sunny ones. An opportunity to sketch:)

There are many pathways, a little water fountain and pool under this bridge and a small amphitheater behind me. It would probably have concerts in the summer.

We have enjoyed visiting all the small coastal villages on Gozo and decide to take the bus back out to Xlendi for lunch. Last time it was cold and windy so we will have a look at it on a sunny day. We chose a different restaurant, the Boathouse, as where we had eaten before had closed up for renovations. We share half a roast duck in orange sauce with fresh roasted potatoes and vegetables. It is lunchtime but everything is served as if it's dinner with an antipasto plate, warm crusty rolls and garlic butter. The meal is wonderful along with a half bottle of Gozitan Chardonnay. The antipasto is always served as 'complimentary' and when we had finished eating we were presented with glasses of 'complimentary' Limoncellos. All in all a very pleasant meal.

 

Feeling full and lazy from the wine we start the long trip back. Two buses to the ferry and one after, a short walk and we are home. It's almost 5:00. It's been a long but good day.

Finally tried a Kinnie on the ferry. It seems to be Malta's answer to a Dr. Pepper. They are advertised everywhere..... I guess like we see Coke and Pepsi.

 

 

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Winding down our days in SPB.

"The Cold" is now one week old and I'm officially declaring it over. Even though I sometimes have a nasty cough it doesn't seem to be affecting my breathing. I still can walk and climb the hill from the Bay to our apartment. We spent the morning dragging out our suitcases beginning to get organized for our move. It's amazing how much stuff came out of our luggage. We have added a box or two of food stuffs, not to mention a case of wine and water. We're taking advantage of our 'taxi' service so we don't have to go shopping as soon as we are settled in Marsascala.

My timing for feeling under the weather has coincided with a week of unstable weather. It has made it easier to accept spending more time inside than we usually do.

Including my two weeks in Italy earlier this year, I have not seen this much thunder, lightning and down pouring rain in my memory. But, unlike at home, it's energetic, extreme and then replaced by sunshine. The storms don't last very long and as soon as the rain stops people come rushing back outside to walk and soak up the warmth. This is winter in Malta they all tell us, from our wine sellers to my hairdresser.....Then they ask "why do you come here in the winter". We always answer 'because it's warmer than at home and it's quieter than in the summer'. I don't think many Maltese have met many Canadians especially from the west coast.

There are certain places in this northern part of Malta that we won't revisit once we have moved south. Not that the distances are great but it's the time on buses that make some places difficult to get to. Tomorrow will be one of our "last" trips. We are going to Gozo, not to travel the island to see the small villages but to have a final look around Victoria and hopefully to see more of the Citidal which was under construction before Christmas.

It's hard at the beginning when you think you have so much time ahead of you to capture all the sights, sounds, smells and images that flash across your minds eye and become memories. I can't imagine how I will feel when we are preparing to leave the island totally. This move is a bit of a wake up call to remind me to savour all our experiences during the next four weeks. Take no day for granted for they are fleeting and this trip will be over before we know it.

 

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Blogless in Malta

We walked and sat in the sun as it presented itself, just like all the other Sunday strollers.

 

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Observations

We have been pretty much house bound with me and my cold for the better part of a week. We do manage to get out for short walks in our neighbourhood for groceries and today, a last order for wine and water. 'Our' De Best Wine Wholesaler gives us de' best prices and delivers, even putting it in the elevator for us.

As we walk back the sun is warm for a few fleeting moments but we need to get back for our delivery so can't dawdle. Maybe the sun will last and we can come back out.

I have been noting some of the sounds of St Paul's Bay.....

This is not restricted to St Paul's Bay.... but the very unique, melodic, sometimes harsh, sometimes loud, but beautiful language that is primarily Arabic mixed with Italian, Spanish and English. I enjoy trying to figure out how to say the names of the different places we have been to .....on the buses they have a reader board that states the next stop and a recorded voice that tells its name. I can read it and hear it as we move along. It has been the best way for me to learn.....that Q's are silent, GH at the beginning is silent, X is an s sound....two x's is a 'sh' sound......it is a challenge but a language unlike anywhere else.

always the church bells in the distance,

the buses as they gear down to come around the corner at St. Anthony's bus stop.

The musical honking sound of the propane delivery truck announcing its arrival...sounds like an ice cream wagon.

All the various sounds of the garbage trucks that come by everyday at least twice, sometimes three times. And also the fellow with the garbage can on wheels that picks up litter from the road and sidewalk.

The clip clip of the horses hooves on the road pulling the little two wheeled carts.

The quick honk, honk of the cars that don't stop at the stop signs....just letting you know they aren't stopping.

The chatter and laughter of the two moms and their five children, two in strollers, taking the older ones to school. I hear them before I see them pass by in front of us at 7:45am.

The neighbour man with the Maltese terrier that has a bark like gravel in a bucket.

The feral cats that meow out back somewhere. I think they have a Maltese accent too....they definitely sound different to the Tom cats we hear at home....just sayin'.....

 

I'm watching the people walk past our apartment trying to do fast sketches. Cabin Fever is setting in.

I have just had a face time visit with Stella and Jackie Boy...warms my heart to see and hear their voices. Along with cabin fever I'm feeling a little homesick. Painting Gramma is still remembered.

 

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We Make Arrangements to Move

I woke up today knowing I was over the worst of this cold. My head feels clear and my energy is back. I still have to clear the chest of the bark but what a difference from yesterday. It is another stormy and windy day so we have stayed inside altogether. I think it's like the "hockey all star break" for us, a few days of R/R before we move on to the next chapter of 'Bob and Karen do Malta'. We have communicated with both of our landlords and we will be driven to our new place in Marsascala on Thursday around noon. That is such a bonus because we have accumulated a bit of stuff that we need to take with us. Our new apartment is an uphill walk from the bus stop and we don't know about deliveries of water and wine so we are taking a couple of days supplies with us.

I'm trying to catch up on a few of the images from our stay here and the places we have seen. So staying home for a day or two has had its advantages.

The City of Mdina will be one of the special places we have seen. Bob is always taking pictures from the bus as we travel around. It amazes me that he can capture such great images from a moving bus and through dirty windows. I used one of his pictures to paint this in my journal. Mdina sits on top of the hill looking out at the whole of the north and eastern part of Malta. It was originally the capital of Malta but when the Knights of St. John, who were mostly a sea based force, made Valletta and the Grand Harbour their center of activity Mdina sank into the background as a holiday destination for the nobility. With its massive walls and shaded narrow streets it became known as the "Silent City".

With the whole front of the apartment floor to ceiling glass I am always sitting right in front watching everything that passes on the sidewalk, the roads and the Bay. I have taken over the table with my art supplies while Bob has the couch and coffee table. He can sit comfortably in his shorts and Tshirt and maybe a fleece jacket while I am in double, triple layers and wrapped in scarves. So here I sit watching another storm blowing through the Bay. I am comfy and warm. But note.....I'm not wearing socks....I can still have bare feet:)

 

 

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Not One of My Better Days

Sherry said despite how I am feeling I look quite glamorous with my earrings and my scarf. Those earrings have not been off since we got here and as for scarves, well I'm trying to think if there's been a day when I haven't had one on. Maybe the first week because it was a little warmer but definitely not since. It is hard to heat these stone buildings so I've worn a scarf most days inside too. We didn't come to Malta for the heat and the weather has been mostly perfect for traveling around. I will come home with only tan lines from my Keens on my feet and a brown weathered face.

To support my sad day the weather sent thunder, lightning, rain and even a little hail. I'm not sure how that happens when it's 15 degrees. But as usual the sun came out and we made me go for a little walk, about ten blocks in total. We needed more Kleenex.

 

It's always beautiful in Malta even on stormy days because it's not often that we don't see a colourful sunrise or sunset.

 

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My Cold Gets Me:(

I hate being sick! Or anything less than 90%. Before lunch I walked down the hill to the pharmacy and got Benedryl for my cough, lozenges for the tickle that keeps me awake at night and Europes answer to Tylenol, Panadol for overall body aches. I'm still taking all my regular vitamins and my homeopathic remedy to fight whatever this years flu is about. At this stage I don't care if it's natural or chemical, I just want to get better. I don't want to miss any days. On my way back I walked along promenade until the big staircase that climbs from the Bay to just outside our apartment. I said I wanted to climb it at least once to know how many stairs there were. People use it as part of their walking or running exercise routine. One hundred and two stairs. Today it just about killed me.

I don't use our elevator going down which is 32 stairs and I will climb up if I don't have groceries. So today I went up 102 and down 96. We are working hard to get in better shape. Malta is a wonderful country for walking. I read an article about a Maltese nurse that was walking from tower to tower to raise money for the Hospice Centre where she worked. It was 70km and took her 4 days. It still amazes me how tiny is this Island country.

After lunch we wanted to take advantage of the beautiful sunny day so went down to the lower road and sat in the sun. It felt so good. Tomorrow I'm going to be better!!!

 

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Second Home Day

Yesterday we never left the apartment. One day is enough so I guess I'm not feeling too bad. We walked into town and did some shopping but that was all. Chicken soup for lunch and a quiet afternoon. It was really quite nice actually. I sat at the table and reviewed some of the things I wanted to paint.My fascination with doors continues. Some are better than others:(

 

I'm not a fan of blown glass but it is an old craft here like lace tatting and weaving. This is a tiny bud vase only 4 inches tall. The colour is really a dark magenta, much nicer than this red. And it will be another memory from Malta.

It was an exciting day in Quesnel today. It was Stella's first day at preschool. I think she is just a little happy......daddy not so much I heard. Who says you can't be glamorous in the snowy North. Love you Stella, from Painting Gramma. Xoxo

 

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A Home Day

After a poor nights sleep I've finally run out of steam. It is time to have a day at home. We are both happy to do this. It is overcast so we don't feel bad about not going anywhere. We have decided we will not buy another weekly bus pass for now but will do things in our neighbourhood for the next few days. House chores, some laundry and showers and the day passes. It's really not that hard to have a day in the apartment. The view is constantly changing with boat traffic and people watching. I spent the afternoon with my feet up and a cup of camomile tea getting caught up in my journal and blog. We had leftovers for lunch and then a bowl of ham and pea soup was good enough for dinner.

It's not an exciting page but it does tell the story of our day. Sometimes all I want is a record to remind me of the ordinary times. Not every day is new and unusual. Most have been but we need this kind of day once in awhile to reenergize ourselves.

 

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Valletta on a Sunday.....what were we thinking???

I'm fighting a cold but decided I had enough energy to get on a bus. So we went to Valletta. Sunday is not a good day to go anywhere if you don't feel like being in crowds. We were there early enough to be able to quietly walk the streets. Our destination was the south side of Valletta to see the views over the Grand Harbour.

 

Because everything is built of sandstone and it quickly gets discoloured from weather and atmosphere, it is sometimes hard to know what is new construction. This bell tower and the bronze statue that lays below it were built in 1992 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Malta receiving the George Cross from Britain for its valour during WWII. The reclining statue represents the 7000 civilian and armed forces lives that were lost between 1940 and 1943. The ten ton bronze bell rings daily at noon. We were there to hear it today.

 

It was sunny by the afternoon but very windy. I'm trying to stay in the sun but out of the wind. Not an easy task up here.

The views are breathtaking as you can see all along the Grand Harbour, from out at sea to almost as far back as Valletta's suburb of Floriana. I have read statistics that say 47% of Maltas population live within three kilometres of Floriana. It is where the majority of tourists also stay. The south side of the harbour is an area we plan to explore when we are in Marsascala. This includes 'The Three Cities', Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Senglea ....an area that doesn't seem to draw nearly as many visitors.

I'm hungry, so we start our walk back into the Center of Valletta which means going back up and up and up. I roughly counted the steps....over 100....thigh muscles were humming by the time we reached the top.

 

 

Even though the sun is out it only gets through to the city streets in a few places. This would be a good thing in the heat of the summer but not so good for us. It's too cold to eat outside so we head back to the Bad Ass Whisky & Bistro to share our regular burger, with a beer and a wine.

I like coming to Valletta but dislike the always crowded and slow trip back. We tried to leave early to miss much of the traffic but it's Sunday and everyone is either out walking, driving or on the bus. It takes over an hour to go maybe 6/8 kilometres. Thankfully we got seats and we are home by 3:00pm. We did another chicken in orange sauce dinner with baked potatoes. I worked on my journal but my cold-clogged head couldn't blog. There's always tomorrow and it just might be a quiet catch up day.

 

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