As we have explored the towns along the lake, Varenna is the one place in which we have yet to spend any time. It is where Chef Moreno picked us up to go to Cookery School and where we arrived from Milan. Today we plan to see more than the ferry dock and train station. As we start our way through the streets above the lake we spot a cobblestone path that has a sign with an arrow pointing upwards to the "Castello". It was old and faded and the numbers that we thought indicated how far showed either 200 meters or at worst 2 Kms. Maybe even meant two hours. We just don't know. So we start to climb. It was still morning cool and mostly in the shade. Old stone walls covered in vines and flowers, including this beautiful passion flower that was one of the first to bloom. We climb and climb with no further indication of our destination. After about 1/2 hour of this I'm beginning to wonder if I should continue or just cut my losses and head back down. But it's always the draw of the unknown and the hope we will arrive around the next corner.
At last a level spot, a junction of paths. One way to return to town, another was a private road and the third continued upwards. As we sit on the path contemplating our next move, a French couple passes us and stops to show us their map. It seems we are a little more than halfway to the castle:(...next an English group of six from Manchester. As you can see we did continue on. We arrive in the tiny town of Vezio set on the right hand side of the hill that looks across the valley to the town of Gitanno where we were for cookery school. We are definitely very high.
Up and up and up ....
Everything continues to go up and there in this little hillside community we find a ceramics/raku shop. There's no way we can bring back pottery so we settled for a couple more bracelets. Small and easy to pack souvenirs.
Just when you think you can't go on any further, there ahead is Ristorante Bar il Portichetto, in a tiny courtyard with four outside tables sitting in the sun. We had already eaten our packed sandwich from the hotel but we want is a cappuccino ....I have complained throughout the whole trip that I really need a bigger cappuccino but they are always served in quite small cups. On the menu I see cappuccino "Maxi". We even got a piece of chocolate which we dropped into our coffee to melt....heaven after a "hellish" climb.
As we sit and rest and sketch we see and hear a very large group of mostly young boys about 9 or 10 running up the paths heading for the Castillo. Obviously a school outing. We take a quick look at the castle area but decide we can't compete with this group to explore the castle in the peace and quiet it and us deserves.
The path that we travelled up on is called a mulattiera, or mule track. The path we choose to go down is called a sentiero, or foot path. It is described as "following groves of ancient olive trees" that are planted on the steep slopes of the hill to take advantage of the sunshine. This footpath is more like a goat trail and almost worse that climbing up. No cobblestones here, just dirt and rock and narrow and steep! I could really have used my walking stick today but had no idea I was taking on mountain hiking. Halfway down, the trail ends at a small hotel with a big patio with tables and chairs but is closed. We sit down, put our feet up on the stone wall and look back up to where we had been about 15 minutes ago. There was the castle turret above the treeline. Another rest and another opportunity to sketch. It would have been perfect if someone had come along with another cappuccino but just sitting felt pretty good.
Back in Varenna, tired but happy with our day and the charming places we found through hard work and perseverance. A true example of 'good things often don't come easy'.
Back on the ferry and up to our regular spot for our last dinner. We are packed and ready for morning with nothing to do but enjoy a relaxing breakfast before we leave bella Bellagio.
Posted with Blogsy
No comments:
Post a Comment